Green Campan Marble Columns

These columns were painted to look like Green Campan Marble. This was a big job over the winter of 2008 in upstate NY. We did the walnut wood graining on the walls as well – but that’s another post.

First of 3 stages: Background. Lay on tons of colored glaze in a directional flow with different sizes of the pointed glazing brush. We used Proceed glaze and slow-dry colors by Golden Artist Colors, Inc.

Use a chiqueteur to mottle the colors while still keeping the colors pure.

See how it looks after this step – it still has a good direction/flow.

Soften every inch with a badger hair brush. Don’t obsess over this step – just blend quickly without brush marks.

Use a mini badger hair brush for the edges.

It’s got great color and flow. Let dry.

Stage 2: Veining. Apply a very transparent green over the dried surface with a domed glazing brush. Be generous with glaze.

Stipple aggressively to break up the glaze. Work fast. It doesn’t have to be perfect.

You can use any chiqueteur brush for this next step, but I used a square 2-header for more control. Dip the brush in denatured alcohol, disperse on a palette to distribute evenly on the brush, and pounce lightly over the freshly glazed surface. Watch as the alcohol creates magical patterns.

Vary your brush marks, but keep with the direction of the previous step.

Start the veining process with blue/green, thin veins. I find a stiffer veining brush works best for this.

When you’re done veining, let dry.

Stage 3: Overglazing. Using a fine chiqueteur, create a white, cloudy texture.

I always use a palette when I paint. See the palette cup that holds my sauce.

Add white veins and fissures using a softer veining brush.

Use mostly pure white but add a little Naples yellow for variation.

For the larger fissures, use a single headed brecher.

Soften veins in one direction with a round badger hair brush. Don’t overblend!! Finally, go back with the transparent green glaze and break up some of the bigger white veins using a 2-headed samina brush.

We varnished these with a water-based satin varnish. We rolled the varnish in sections and then “tipped” the varnish with blue spalter.